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Hamamelis (Witch Hazel) – Create the garden you’ve always wanted
Witch hazels are also exceptionally winter hardy (zone 3) and are After watering in, mulch with weed-free compost or soil conditioner. Hamamelis virginiana (Common or Virginia Witch Hazel), a North American native, is quite cold-hardy (Zones ) and rich of a sweet and intoxicating fragrance.
Witch hazel zone 3 free
Изящные европейские черты лица и карие глаза делали Сьюзан похожей на модель, рекламирующую косметику Эсте Лаудер.
Худоба и неловкость подростка бесследно исчезли. С годами она приобрела гибкость и грацию. У нее была высокая стройная фигура с пышной грудью и по-юношески плоским животом. Дэвид шутил, что она может стать первой моделью для рекламы купальников, имеющей докторскую степень по прикладной математике и теории чисел.
Witch Hazel | Home & Garden Information Center
Planting schedules can be tricky. You need to understand and be watching climate patterns and weather in your area. Zone 6B typically has a minimum temperature of -5 to 0 degrees Fahrenheit. My planting schedule will help guide you on what to plant when. Keep in mind that this is my personal planting schedule. I live in Kentucky. Zone 6b. The lighter green represents 6B. States located in growng zone 6. Darker green is 6a and the lighter green where we are is 6b.
You may need to adjust this schedule up or down depending on where you live and garden. Knowing your agricultural zone is very important. Another important date to understand is your expected Last and First Frost dates. For me, these have been traditionally May 1st and October These are averages and do change especially as the climate warms.
Brassica seedlings in my greenhouse during a late season snow. As you start planting this year, keep in mind the importance of succession planting. Succession planting is one way to have an abundant harvest.
Never leave a space empty during the growing season. When one crop is done replace it with another. Early crops such as cool weather lettuce, spinach, and radishes can be planted in March and done harvesting by May. Follow them with tomatoes and squash. And when the warm weather crops are done have cool weather transplants ready to go such as cabbage and broccoli.
You can also do the same crop successions. By planting early and late varieties of the same crop you can extend your harvest. This works well with lettuce, beans, and corn.
Read the product descriptions. Some lettuce is very hardy in cool weather and some varieties will grow in summer often with shade cloth. That way you can continue to have nice fresh salads all year long. This is why when you look at my planting chart you will see a crop multiple times. Planning is important. Read my article Work That Plan to help you set goals for the garden.
Great for square foot and French intensve gardens. I use a variety of ways to get plants started. I start seeds inside, direct seed them in the garden, and start them from either seeds or transplants in the greenhouse.
I use a number of different ways to start my seeds and different methods to grow crops. Probably the biggest reason is that I love the variety and I am a scientist at heart. I want to find the best micro-climate for my plants and get the most production at the same time. Using different planting methods also will give you crop security. If cabbage lopers find the plants out in the garden, hopefully, the ones in the raised bed under garden fabric will have avoided them. In April of , my farm was hit by an F1 tornado.
We had an outside animal enclosure get flattened luckily no one was in it and the greenhouse plastic was just shredded. Many of the plants growing inside it were beaten up by wind and rain.
However, my outside raised beds along the fence line were more protected and weathered the storm. So I still had spring lettuce and peas growing. A blessing after a very scary night spent with the dogs between two mattresses! I start some seeds inside. The advantage of starting seeds indoors is that they have ideal conditions to start off their new life.
Loose seeding starting substrate, warmth, light, and water help them to germinate and grow quickly. The disadvantage of starting seeds indoors is that you may not be able to plant them outside because the weather is not cooperating.
Your young seedlings may become leggy and unhealthy because they need more natural conditions. My seed-starting space is small so my goal is to keep bumping things up. If your seedlings are in a 48 or 72 section flat, bump them up to a 3-inch jiffy pot. I do start my bigger plants in an 18 flat so they have some wiggle room.
Once seedlings are established and getting true leaves, I move them to the greenhouse. If we have a cold spell I have to haul them back to the heat for a day or two. Some crops I direct seed. However, you run the risk of Mother Nature especially in early spring when temperatures fluctuate greatly and heavy rains pound the soil.
Direct seeds are more of a gamble. To help reduce the risk you can use season extension strategies. Season extension can be cold frames , garden fabric, hoop houses, greenhouses, or simply a good layer of straw mulch. The point of season extension is to just give the plants some added protection. Remember we are all about having a production garden so that we grow successful crops to help us meet our goal of self-sufficiency. Some crops I direct seed or transplant into the greenhouse.
This just gives them an additional layer of security by protecting them from harsh winds and rain. It also provides a warm microclimate. Since space is limited I tend to plant a small section of things in the greenhouse.
I do plant my main crop of eggplant in the greenhouse every year which is a strategy I use to protect them from flea beetles my worst nemesis. I have two long beds running down the side of my foot long greenhouse that is 2 feet wide. One section is used for my perennial herb garden and has chives, thyme, oregano, and sage that come back every year.
The rosemary is a toss-up whether it survives the winter. I also have a section of white sage that is used for smudging. One of my raised beds covered n row cover to protect the seedlings. You will notice that I often plant the same crop in many different ways. This is the crop security program I spoke of earlier. My target date for startng things outsde is St.
I start doing more direct seeding and transplanting cool weather crops in April. I also start seeding my squashes and melons. I do like to push my parameters and get tomatoes and peppers outside as early as possible. I play planting by ear based on the weather. Going into my frost-free season I am transplanting and direct seeding my warm-weather crops.
Going into summer I will continue to fill in the gaps. I typically will plant beans and squashes every two weeks. In May I start planting summer lettuce varieties.
I plant Brussel Sprouts in early June as I want them to mature n the fall. I grow flowers for a number of reasons. First, they are pretty, and I enjoy them. I love to fill my house with them in summer. A mix of annuals, perennials, and the wildflowers in my field make beautiful bouquets. Secondly, flowers do some good work in your garden. They attract pollinators and other beneficial insects , my bees love them, and they are good companion plants for many vegetables.
Not to mention some flowers are edible. Nasturtiums have a wonderful peppery flavor that perks up a salad. Calendula looks great and has medicinal properties as well. Since I have a small grow light area flowers often get pushed to the back. Often, I just wait until the bulk of my veggie plants are in and then sow flowers.
In a milder spring, I have started them in the greenhouse. Some such as zinnias and sunflowers often get direct sown in the garden. Also, many flowers readily self-seed and do the work for you.
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